Showing posts with label natural. Show all posts
Showing posts with label natural. Show all posts

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Soap Challenge - Week 3

Mica Swirl was this week's challenge from Amy Warden of Great Cakes Soapworks and I was surprised at just how much trouble I had with this one!  I thought "Snap! How hard can this be?"

Have I ever told you what happens when I say that?  Well Murphy joined this party and it took 3 tries before I got this one done for heaven's sake and I'm not all that happy with this one even. 


So let's start at the very beginning shall we?  On the right you can see my first attempt. This one is Black Raspberry Vanilla which usually plays nice.  But by the time I was doing the mica swirl it was getting thick.  How annoying!  Then I put too much swirl on so the drama doesn't exist except in my annoyance.

The second one, well you don't get to see a picture of it because nothing went right on that one.  Total fail!  I haven't had one of those in donkey's years (they live longer than horses, dogs, or cats),  Did I mention that Murphy had come calling?  Ah well that was when I soldiered on to make the one you see about.  It's scent is Green Irish Tweed, once of my personal favourites and it also is know for playing nice.  Well not when Murphy comes to play....   In all fairness the swirl worked out just perfect but again, it started getting thick when it came time to do my top swirl.  I even had the mica swirl sitting there ready to go, but I thick where I messed up was being too fussy about getting all of the batter used.

So lesson learned.  The mica swirl is going to take me a bit longer to perfect.  Here are the cut pictures for your enjoyment.

Black Raspberry Vanilla



















Green Irish Tweed Type





Amy thank you for hosting these challenges - you are helping me grow in my design area and I am grateful for that.

If you would like to see more pictures of other results take a look here.

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We will be taking a break and it will be two weeks before the next, and final challenge. Until next time enjoy your days.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Tiger Stripe Soap Challenge

Amy Ward of Great Cakes Soapworks has generously started another round of challenges to soapmakers and I have joined this year for trying different different swirling techniques in soap.  Here is where you can see Amy's video on how to do this technique.  Before I go any further I would really like to thank Amy for doing these Challenges as it allows all of us to try new things.

So our first challenge is the Tiger Stripe.  As most of you know I love Pink so I decided to do Pink & Black for my colours, nice high contrast.  Everything was going according to plan, got the pink to where I wanted it, the black was a lovely deep black and then I added the fragrance.  It left the pink gorgeous but it morphed into a lovely grey, I loved it!

Now comes the pour.  I decided to leave this at a fairly thin trace in order to make sure it didn't get too thick.  I used a well behaved fragrance so I knew it wouldn't make it move too fast (Energy).  Unfortunately, it was too thin so the first part of the pour was not quite what I was going for.  By the middle of the loaf it had gone to where I wanted it to be.  At the end, well it was too thick, of course.  But I soldiered on, I wasn't going to let mere soap best me and I did my normal top with lots of glitter.



Now the wait was on.  What was this going to look like when I unmoulded it and cut?  How bad was it?  Here I am, am experienced soapmaker, fussing like a newby about what was inside the soap.  It's amazing what a challenge will do to you! 

It's now tomorrow, I can open up the present that is my soap.  Oh heaven this is as exciting as Christmas except there was some trepidation involved.  I lift it out of its mould, good so far, unwrap the soap, hmmmm maybe a little soft yet.  Should I wait?  Nah..  I pull out the cutter, prepare the soap to go in and slice!

Here is what I found!







I am pleased and this was fun so I will be doing this again.

Amy, thank you for the learning opportunity.  I look forward to the next challenge.....

To see all of the participants take a look at Amy's Blog HERE


Sunday, April 1, 2012

Lavender, Sweet Lavender

Lavender is such a well know herb and essential oil that we seem to almost take it for granted.  In Europe it is used as a flavouring and as a child I seem to remember some candy that was lavender flavoured.  
Many people believe it is okay to put lavender essential oil on your skin neat, in other words without any diluting and for most people it is okay to do that.  However, I discovered something that surprised me that I would like to share with you.
I work with essential oil quite a bit as an aromatherapist and I was one of those that advocated using Lavender essential oil on your skin without any dilution until one day I was scenting some product with it and put my pipette down on a styrofoam plate.  I only had it there for a less than a minute and when I went to pick it up again I saw that the lavender had eaten through the plate!  Needless to say I was shocked.  It gave me a new respect for my old friend.  So now I recommend that you put it into a carrier oil to use even though 9 times out of 10 people won't react.  But if it will eat through styrofoam I think I would like to play it safe.
Here is some more information on Lavender.  This is an article that I wrote for Saponifier magazine back in 2010 that I am reprinting here for your information.

Lavender, Sweet Lavender
Now is what you have in your cupboard really lavender and if it is, where was it grown and harvested?  Who would have believed that something as common as lavender can be so complicated?  Let’s list the different types shall we?
  • Lavender 40/42  (Lavandula Augustifolium) This one is grown in the USA & it is extracted through Distillation.  Here is the typical gas Chromatography Analysis:
CONSTITUENT
PERCENTAGE
alpha Pinene + beta Pinene + Camphene
1%
1,8-Cineole
1.4%
cis Ocimene
4.5%
trans Ocimene
2.8%
Camphor
0.4%
Linalool
36.5%
Linalyl acetate
42.5%
beta Caryophyllene
3.2%
Terpinen-4-ol
2.4%
Lavandulyl acetate
2.2%
beta Farnesene
1.3%
Lavandulol
0.5%
Borneol + alpha Terpineol
1.1%

  • Lavender Oil Bulgarian  (Lavandula Augustifolium) This one is of course grown in Bulgaria and is also extracted through Steam Distillation.  Here is its typical Gas Chromatography Analysis:
CONSTITUENT
PERCENTAGE
alpha Pinene + beta Pinene + Camphene
1%
Limonene
0.2%
1,8-Cineole
4.1%
cis Ocimene
1%
trans Ocimene
0.6%
Camphor
0.6%
Linalool
32.3%
Linalyl acetate
33.5%
beta Caryophyllene
1.5%
Terpinen-4-ol
1.4%
Lavandulyl acetate
1.2%
beta Farnesene
2.6%
Lavandulol
1.3%
Borneol + alpha Terpineol
1.2%

  • Lavender Oil High Alpine (Lavandula Augustifolium) is grown in France at high altitudes as indicated by its name.  Steam Distillation is used here as well.  This is its Gas Chromatography Analysis:
CONSTITUENT
PERCENTAGE
alpha Pinene + beta Pinene + Camphene
.3%
Limonene
0.2%
1,8-Cineole
1%
cis Ocimene
2.8%
trans Ocimene
2.6%
Camphor
0.5%
Linalool
33.4%
Linalyl acetate
44.3%
beta Caryophyllene
2.9%
Terpinen-4-ol
2.1%
Lavandulyl acetate
2.2%
beta Farnesene
1.3%
Lavandulol
0.3%
Borneol + alpha Terpineol
2.8%

  • Lavender Oil Spike (Lavandula latifolia).  This not a true lavender which is grown in Spain.  Following is its typical Gas Chromatography Analysis:
CONSTITUENT
PERCENTAGE
alpha Pinene
1.8%
Camphene
0.3%
Beta Pinene
2.3%
Sabinene
1%
Limonene
0.5%
1,8-Cineole
35%
Camphor
16.2%
Linalool
33.2%
Linalyl acetate
5.9%
beta Caryophyllene
0.4%
Terpinen-4-ol
0.4%
Lavandulyl acetate
0.9%
beta Farnesene
0.4%
Lavandulol
0.2%
Borneol + alpha Terpineol
1.5%

  • Lavandin Oil (Lavandula hybrida sumian)  Once again we have something that is not a true lavender but rather a hybrid between true lavender and spike lavender.  This is grown in France and is also steam distilled for extraction.  Let’s take a look at its Gas Chromatography Analysis shall we?
CONSTITUENT
PERCENTAGE
alpha Pinene + beta Pinene + Camphene
1.2%
Limonene
7%
1,8-Cineole
3.9%
cis Ocimene
2.6%
trans Ocimene
1.7%
Camphor
7.8%
Linalool
43.5%
Linalyl acetate
23.3%
beta Caryophyllene
1.2%
Terpinen-4-ol
0.9%
Lavandulyl acetate
1.5%
beta Farnesene
0.9%
Lavandulol
0.5%
Borneol + alpha Terpineol
3.4%

As you can see from the above information is that there are at least five (5) common Lavender types with two of them not true Lavenders.  This is something we all need to be aware of.  Lavandin Oil is often mistaken for true lavender which is important if you plan on using it therapeutically.  If you are using it strictly as a fragrance for your products and are keeping you percentages at 3% or lower then it is generally a safe product, however make sure you read the contra-indicators further on in this monograph.  Spike Lavender is also often mistaken for the real thing.  The key here is to look at INCI name as well as the monographs. Lavandin Oil is a hybrid created by crossing true lavender with Spike lavender and is the close to true lavender and you can see if has the same constituents but in significantly different percentages. Spike lavender is missing trans Ocimene and has Sabinene in it. 



Let’s now examine how Lavender is used and to do that we need to look at its actions:
  • Analgesic
  • Anticonvulsive
  • Antidepressant
  • Antimicrobial
  • Antirheumatic 
  • Antiseptic
  • Antispasmodic
  • Antitoxic
  • Carminative
  • Cholagogue (medicinal agent which promotes the discharge of bile from the system, purging it downward)
  • Choleretic  (stimulates production of bile in the liver)
  • Cicatrisant (healing by creating the wound to close through scar tissue)
  • Cordial (a stimulant/tonic)
  • Cytophylactic (stimulates regeneration of cells)
  • Deodorant
  • Diuretic
  • Emmenagogue (induces or assists menstruation)
  • Hypotensive (lowers blood pressure)
  • Insecticide
  • Nervine (strengthening and toning to the nerves as well as the nervous system)
  • Parasticide
  • Rubefacient (substance that causes redness of the skin , possible irritation)
  • Sedative
  • Stimulant
  • Sudorific (causes sweating)
  • Tonic
  • Vermifuge (expels intestinal worms)
  • Vulnerary (helps heal wounds and sores through external application)

That’s quite the list isn’t it and an impressive one at that!  Something else you should know about lavender essential oil is that when used with another essential oil it will enhance the properties and actions of the other oil(s). As a First Responder we were trained that oxygen is never wrong to apply, well this holds true for Lavender as well.  Even though we see differences between the different lavenders they all carry many of the same properties, they may vary as to how well each will work on certain things because these variances exist, but they all work.  As you can also see in general we are talking physical uses; emotional, spiritual and mental responses also exist and it is well know that any scent will create psychosomatic response since memory is deeply stimulated by scent.  Our spiritual wellbeing is directly linked to our physical and they tend to reflect each other, so when we treat one the other is also going to respond in a positive manner.
Folk Traditions have long held sway with people who grew up close to the land, they have been handed down through the centuries, mother to daughter, physician to apprentice since time began.  Through the paleontological record we can see even the ancients used herbs to care for themselves medically as well as part of flavourings for their food.  Lavender has a sweet scent as it grows and is an edible plant.  By making teas and decoctions not only were they having something good to drink but one that would also assist with a great many illnesses.  Lavender was used to keep insects away in poor homes where straw was used for their floors, beds and roofs, otherwise life would have been unbearable, even by the old standards.  Lavender was also used to ease stomach upsets, it is also well known for helping a person relax or sleep.  What’s interesting is that lavender not only relaxes & soothes but it also stimulates, strange but true.  Let’s face it, when we’re relaxed we’re far more able to take on new challenges.  Lavender can also be used to work on the following areas too:
  • Cosmetic Water
  • Insect repellent
  • Linen scenting/freshening
  • Spirit of Lavender makes a wonderful restorative tonic for fainting, giddiness, colic and spasms.
  • Footbaths
  • Toothache
  • Neuralgia
  • Sprains
  • Rheumatism
  • Hysteria
  • Palsy
  • Fear
In aromatherapy it is used for skin care, food flavouring, cosmetics, circulation, muscles, joints, respiratory system, the digestive system, the immune system and the nervous system.
 The scent of lavender is recognized by almost everybody from some point of their life and almost all of us will have an emotional reaction to it whether we realize we’re having one or not.  It is most of the most recognized fragrance that mankind has.

It is worthy of us to take a moment and look at Spike Lavender.  It has a place in our herbal pharmacy as well.  Like true lavender there are a few different species and their qualities are going to differ from place to place.  According to Julia Lawless the French Spike Oil is reputed to be a more delicate, aromatic scent than the Spanish variety.  This holds true with all of the Lavenders, you just need to place them side by side to see the differences. 
Spike Lavender also brings to the table a few different qualities.  According to the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia Spike Lavender is indicated for flatulent dyspepsia, colic, depressive headaches and topically for rheumatic pain.

Lavandin is the one I find most laypeople mistake for lavender and I see it interchanged a lot.  It does not have a long history in herbal remedies and folklore, but it is very popular for use as a scenting agent in soaps, lotions and other cosmetic products.  This is wonderful, but you still need to make sure that you are aware of medicinal or therapeutic properties of each essential oil, or herb you use.  In aromatherapy lavandin has similar uses to lavender but you need to keep in mind that it is more penetrating and rubefacient (more likely to cause skin irritation) with a sharper scent that true lavender.  It is good for respiratory circulatory and muscular conditions.

Precautions and Contra-Indicators
As wonderful as lavender is, it has its own set of precautions and contraindications which we also must examine.
It used to be believed that you could safely take essential oils orally, but the general consensus in the aromatherapy world is that this is not a good idea and something to be avoided.  If you feel the need to take any essential oil orally you are far better off buying the herb and decocting it or making a tea with it.  Even then, make sure you know if the substance is toxic, just because it’s natural doesn’t make it safe, arsenic is natural I doubt I want a tea made from it.  So make sure you are using what is appropriate in the method best suited to it.
Lavender is one of the safest essential oils, however, like anything else there are dangers.  Pregnant women in their first trimester should avoid all essential oils, after the first trimester you can start to use Lavender essential oil again but at a lower dosage, 50% or less.  Remember that essential oils bypass the placental barrier so what you’re getting so does your unborn child.  Newborns should have any essential oils until their 3rd month so in my opinion, you should avoid all essential oils during your pregnancy and until the baby is 3 months old if you are breast feeding.
Another risk group is people who are taking anti-coagulation meds, or have haemophilia, as lavender does contain small amounts of coumarin which is also an anti-coagulator.  If you are using homeopathic therapies, you need to discuss with your doctor any and all essential oils you are using or plan on using as they can potentially interfere with those treatments.  The same goes for your medical doctor.  If you know you are going to be having surgery, then it is a good idea to quit using Lavender 2 weeks prior to surgery as this is one of those essential oils that can negate the effects of anaesthetic.

In conclusion, Lavender Essential Oil is one of the safest essential oils out there and can be rubbed directly on your skin in most instances.  There are always going to be those who are sensitive to it so it is recommended that you dilute it with a carrier oil like Sweet Almond Oil, Olive Oil, Grapeseed Oil, etc.  Lavender blends quite nicely with most other essential oils but here are a few blends that you might like to try:
  • Lavender vanilla
  • Lavender rose
  • Lavender patchouli
  • Lavender orange
  • Lavender rose cedarwood
  • Lavender with any of the citrus oils

Try blending with chamomile, frankincense, rose geranium, geranium, or any of your other favourites.  You will be surprised and delighted by how versatile this precious oil is.

Bibliography:
  • Julia Lawless – The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils
  • International Certified Aromatherapy Institute Class Manuals by Marlene Mitchell
  • Valerie Ann Worwood – The Complete Book of Essential Oils & Aromatherapy

I hope you enjoyed this article.
Cheers